1. Anti-vegetarianism
2. Extremely thin people with unthinkably rich diets
and
3. New and exciting food rituals
Let's start at the origin.
French Supermarkets
Although I try to eschew large supermarkets, (I much prefer fighting the locals for produce at street markets) I have perused my fair share of Carrefour, Monoprix, and Franprix. Although grocery stores in cities tend to be a bit more haphazardly put together than surburbian ones, these grocery stores have tested my patience with their labrinyths, impossible long lines, grumpy cashiers, and unsurpassed wine selection. Since coming to Paris I have:
1. Had my produce thrown at me
2. Been chided for not having exact change
3. Worn high heels in a supermarket
4. Spent over a half an hour picking out jelly and/or wine
One particular time that comes to mind was during the e. coli outbreak in May 2011. Although many Europeans (and Americans) became ill, there was not one recorded death in France who, being quite picky about food sources, implemented strict bans right away.
One day, I arrived at my local Carrefour for some groceries when, to my dismay, I noticed that there was nothing but a few cans of peas and expired cheese on the shelves. How did this happen, I asked myself. Was there going to be a large snowstorm? (The New-Englander in me..)
After picking up a few lonley bananas, I wandered into the usually full stocked "wine cave". I stood shocked, next to several other shoppers with the same mouth-open scrunched-eyebrow facial expression as I (think "the scream"by Munch). There was nothing but a few top-shelf bottles of red and rosé stragglers. I noticed an elderly couple next to me, mumbling French phrases that, at this time in my life, I could not fully understand. Although my ears were not yet ready for such complex French, I was sure that I was a first-hand witness of a sort of crisis.
I never found out exaclty what had happened at that particular Carrefour on that spring day but after stumbling through French newspapers I came to the conclusion that the barren grocery store must have been due to the E. Coli outbreak. But why the wine shortage? I guess this one will remain forever a mystery...
à table!
As I got over my initial embarrassement of sitting at a table for hours on end and eating in front of people who I couldn't quite communicate with, I began to notice some subtle yet important difference in the way the people around me were eating.1. forks & knives. I am proud to say that I can eat my pasta (and just about everything else..) quite dashingly with a fork and a knife. But I won't cut my salad because, as my boyfriend says, "the vinegar attacks the silverware" (or was he talking about the mustard and the lettuce?). I am still not as skilled as my he, who amazed me just the other night with an incredible show of cutting up his melon into bite size pieces. It's an art, I must say that like learning the language, this is a skill that took much practice and a handful of awkward moments.
2. another course? Yes, silly we haven't even started the entrée!! Something I find quite unforgettable about meals in France is the presentation of each dish and the simplicity of it all. I have never thought to eat sliced beets with nothing but salt, pepper and parsley, lettuce with nothing but a "petite sauce", sauteed carrots with a sprinkle of cumin... again this idea of less is more, or even moderation comes into play. Although you would think that a 6-7 course meal would be impossible to stomach,when each course is one simple dish with 2 or 3 ingredients, you end up feeling satisfied and ready for the last two courses...
3. cheese & coffee. I started off my cheese adventure when I first arrived in Feb2011. I bought different kinds of cheeses from the "great wall of cheese" in my local grocery store. I like to compare the amount and variety of cheese available in French grocery stores to the selection of cereal, or perhaps Hostess baked goods in an American one. I tried soft and hard cheese, goat cheese, sheep cheese, stinky cheese, strange furry cheeses and even (GASP) unpasteurized cheese. When I returned to Paris in Sept2011, I began eating regularly with my French host family and my boyfriend's family. After eating at least 2 or 3 courses, I was presented a large platter of different types of cheese, along with lengthy lessons to their origins. And to my delight, to top off the glorious feast of cheese, I get to drink a tiny shot of espresso.
4. bon appétit! I cannot count the times I have been asked to translate this phrase into English. I like to vary my answers in hopes that my new French acquantinces will repeat them to other English natives. Sometimes I say, "come n'get it!" or "dig in!" One time I even said "soup's on!" (I was sadly the only one who laughed..) A friend of mine asked me once if, in America, we say, "good appetite" to our fellow diners. Again, I was the only one laughing. Sometimes when I have a small bag of groceries or am walking down the street, chowing down on a crepe or panini, people wish me happy eatings. I love this! Who ever said Parisian's were snobs?? No stranger has ever wished me a happy meal back home..
5. the worst (and best) breakfast in the world. The only reason I can say "worst" is because I can't bring myself to believe that eating half a stick of butter, bread, and nutella is really a part of a nutritious and well-balanced diet. And yet, there is something to be said about being inticed out of bed with thoughts of chocolate and a steamy bowl of coffee and milk to drown your croissant (buttered and jelly-ed) in. Not to mention the occasional crepe...with honey, lemon...more butter...
Je vous prends une baguette
I have been asked by a few French chums how exactly we Americans can manage without boulangeries on every corner. Frankly, I'm not sure. My boyfriend tells me that he was shocked when he couldn't "take a demi-baguette at a boulangerie in New York". I suppose that in America, we aren't spoiled with crusty baguettes and we are therefore satisfied with sliced Wonderbread....
Not so long ago, I went searching for an open bakery on a Sunday afternoon. Normally, bakeries are open 5-6 days a week from the crack of dawn until around 8pm. As the entire town of Paris shuts down on Sundays, finding an open bakery can be a bit of a challenge. I had luckily stumbled upon an bustling boulangerie and bought a tradition, which I must say was quite stunning.
Right???
I would like to dub this day, and all Sundays henceforth as the "Crise de le Baguette". If you ever happen to find yourself living in Paris, make sure you stock up on baguettes on Saturday, and even hide a few for good measures.
Good Appetite! xojuly
